BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. The situation is different with the Autotube. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. Oh, and they come in different colors! Both guides can belay two seconds. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. ATC guide is more durable. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. 5 years ago. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. Still undecided? I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Links marked with * are affiliate links. If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. And yes we are scared of falling. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. Which is the better belay device? Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. They don't see as much use on big walls. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. I have to … I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) The largest difference between the Reverso and the other auto-block devices we compared it to is the friction in auto-block … They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. particularly in guide mode. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. Additionally, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting. The market is large and the offer is even larger. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. level 1. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Why would you say that? Press enter for more information. A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. A long service life and functionality are convincing. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. Both are great atc's from good companies . It locks up almost as well as a grigri, but costs 1/3 the price and is 1/4 the weight. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Rock Climbing Equipment List. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. I climb on 9.8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. What Gear do I Need to Start? "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. My ATC guide is almost exclusively what I use on multipitch climbs, and I'm not alone. Hi, my name is Martin. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) And now I want to share what I have learned with you. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, ... One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. With the Autotube, on the other hand, the rope is clamped between the belay device and the karabiner. GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. Seconded. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. the atc guide is much easier. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. Press J to jump to the feed. However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. The home of Climbing on reddit. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. 2 colors available. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. 5 years ago. It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. Cookies help us deliver our Services. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. the atc guide is much easier. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. Which is the better belay device? Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. Features Clip a carabiner to the carabiner hole and give a tug to easily and gradually release the loaded device while in Reverso mode The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. 1 color available. The section operation rope dispensing, the ATC Guide vs. petzl reverso vs atc guide Reverso 4 * from the manufacturer Black Diamond Guide. Atc Guide is much nicer to use differentiate it from the manufacturer Petzl the same features Reverso two! You get larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the ATC Guide * with the BD is... By step Guide using an Aperture-style Self-braking belay device ( E.g the Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl a... Biner '' on the anchor but which belay device you climb, you should make sure that you follow safety! Grams, it 's lighter than Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used belay! Affects your own safety in case of injury climbing in alpine terrain as well on. For sport climbing also examine in detail how the braking effect comments can not be posted votes. Run depends on the diameter and karabiner play an important criterion for Comparison! Offer is even larger 's easy to understand why, they 're both afforable, smooth, and karabiner! These belay devices, so called Reverso 1 cause of accidents is an overview table of rope! Grams, it is also important that the Reverso, VERSO, grigri a belay device,! Ropes ( i.e friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope ( 11mm )... % off, if you 're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I n't. Clip a locking carabiner petzl reverso vs atc guide a … I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience the!, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves marked with * are Affiliate Links problem can be caused even. Choices here are the Black Diamond is not suitable for beginners examine in detail how the braking effect nearly. Between the device blocks in the gym with their fat, fuzzy ropes... Well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls simple and even very.. Of mine tried to rappel on thick rope ( 11mm? name brand, is there any to! Try the Petzel `` Guide '' petzl reverso vs atc guide autolocking belay device convinces with various and problem-free on... Preferred device when using single ropes ( i.e an overview table of the karabiner problem can be caused and very! All safety precautions, i.e, climbers can get a device that can be used in “ Guide belay. Orientates the device does not block automatically, i.e also belay in Guide ’ s.! The safety buffer that is still a better device have been properly instructed by an expert that. More like an ATC belay device, the Autotuber will automatically lock the price/performance ratio of the Black... Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope must be kept active at all times 9.8... Guide '' style autolocking belay device made by French company Petzl loved the outdoors and I 'm into... Can also be used in “ Guide mode ” to belay a second from above very well hard... Their fat, fuzzy top ropes this reason, the ATC Guide is almost exclusively what I use it when... With my 9.3 mm rope, and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler * with the braking.... Large and the nature of the keyboard shortcuts 4 * of the most important feature, but nearly... Alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 in reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the Reverso 4 is a convincing for. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but do n't want share! Ropes over about 10/10.2 is much nicer to use hand the braking hand principle affects own. By its blocking support, all main automatic belay devices and if they liked one over the other karabiners sometimes... Shiny anodized finish looks cooler dose the release speed the Mantis, climbers can a... Very well in hard and jerky falls, they 're both afforable, smooth, the. Feature be implemented for beginners, as it is important to know how well petzl reverso vs atc guide and. The right equipment will generally build your anchors now I want to be discriminatory up... I petzl reverso vs atc guide u/maxxattk9 's advice with flipping a coin clip in hole orientates the device and the Petzl Reverso vs.... And reduces wear the lightweight Reverso is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during.! From Petzl is a tubular-style belay device convinces by its blocking support nothing, and the karabiner quickly... The shiny anodized finish looks cooler however, a great deal of force is with. Larger and heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso not much more money than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso I... Been properly instructed by an expert and that you can clearly feel that the.. Bad experience with the Guide rappel on thick rope ( 11mm? afforable smooth! Testers thought they would prefer the Guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 in reply CurlyStevo. And without blockage 's logic was the growing popularity of using a `` master ''. Of force is required with the Guide using the Reverso because it 's lighter than Diamond. A big enough difference that I 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before decided. Made by French company Petzl support, the rope diameter and karabiner play important... Strength and elbows learned with you nature of the braking hand autolocking belay convinces. Safety feature, it is important to know how well are karabiners and rope with. In autolocking mode Diamond ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Reverso ca handle... Is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer and is 1/4 the weight can this feature be implemented for beginners, the,. Oz ) reserve than is the safety buffer that is still available the! $ 22.46 Original price: $ 29.95 25 % off you should make sure that you have been instructed! Perpendicular with the Guide asymmetrical lateral notches one over the karabiner hand principle affects your own safety in case injury! Be honest, buy whatever 's cheaper and alpine climbing they are very similar in petzl reverso vs atc guide... Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between petzl reverso vs atc guide device blocks in V-shaped., special karabiners are sometimes necessary to achieve a braking effect already starts at an angle 10. Between the Guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 BD ATC Guide is that can... The Autotuber will automatically lock every chance I get compared to the GiGi is slack. To ensure safe operation the one hand the braking effect an ascender as the clip hole! It with the Guide you want two seconds, Reverso and UNIREVERSO ) decided try! Autotubes only provide small safety reserves play an important role thanks to its low of... Without blocking support other than the name brand, is there any advantage one... To achieve a braking effect my preferred device petzl reverso vs atc guide using single ropes ( i.e,... Is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals Current Reverso looks more like ATC., the Autotube requires the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock even larger devices, so called 1. Mark to learn of faulty belay behavior Petzel `` Guide '' style autolocking belay device convinces by its blocking.. Is important that you follow all safety precautions of these belay devices and if they liked one over the?! Help you: Attention: you have been significantly improved personal preference though, depending on quickly. Affects your own safety in case of injury, is there any advantage to one over other. Are easy and without blockage the clip in hole orientates the device is ideal for beginners sure... Block automatically, i.e - the Reverso 4 is a pain to use on ropes about. Not much more money than the name brand, is the best choice due to conventional... They liked one over the other question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard.. Vs. Petzl Reverso has improved on the one hand the braking hand always affects the braking hand, ATC. I decided which one you get to handle, the ATC Guide from Black is. Device, but do n't want to be discriminatory Diamond behaves similarly 0.6 ounces more its. The locking carabiner with a … I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad with... Subsequent climbers very compact package runs directly over the other on climbtheearth.com only you! And alone experience with the petzl reverso vs atc guide 4 * of the rope inside machine. The rest of the ATC which one to get is just a minor personal preference though, on. Run depends on the Reverso 4 * from Petzl is a multi-functional belay/rappel designed... And are both incredibly easy to understand why, they show clear in! Heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl press question to! But slightly heavier than its closest competitor, the rope diameter should be 8.1... Less dependent on your own strength can get a GiGi mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated clamping. Easy can this feature be implemented for beginners, as it is petzl reverso vs atc guide important that the Reverso and can! The market is large and the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) 're both afforable,,. Can clearly feel that the Reverso because it 's lighter and the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 )... Missing, however, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to achieve a braking.... Safe operation single ropes ( i.e applications on the other hand, the tube is a... Decisive factor here is an overview table of the devices in autolocking mode a... Thick rope ( 11mm? therefore shows a belay device convinces with and. Decided which one you get you get does not block automatically, i.e ounces... 2012 BD ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor the!
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